In this post I will open my camera bag and show you the photo gear that I use to make the photos you can see in this blog and in my site www.jairophoto.com.
If you have any questions do not hesitate to contact me!
This 12.3 megapixel DX sensor camera was introduced back in 2007. It was, and still is, a very responsive camera with an excellent image quality. It is under low light conditions that this camera may be struggling the most, specially compared to today’s sensors. However, it can still deliver great images up to ISO 1600. It has many customizable buttons that can be programmed which is great to avoid having to navigate menus. For those who have big hands like me, you will appreciate the great ergonomics too. For an excellent and comprehensive review of the Nikon D300 from 2008 check DP review.
Nikkor AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED: My all around lens. Good compromise between focal length range and image quality. It delivers its best image quality arounf f/5.6-8 at all focal lengths except at 135 mm, where it struggles the most. In my dreams, I would trade this lens for a 24-70 f/2.8 and a 70-200 f/2.8 combo. In my dreams, unlike in real life, I have loads of cash of course!
Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D: This is a very fast and sharp prime lens. I mostly use it for portraits with available light and in the studio. It’s also great for street photography. As a bonus, it’s very affordable.
Tokina SD 11-16 2.8 (IF) DX: This super wide angle lens delivers all the sharpness you need for landscape photography. Additionally, it has a fast f/2.8 aperture, which makes this lens perfect for night photography, specially for startrails like the ones you can see here.
Tamron SP AF 90mm f/2.8 Di SP MACRO: The intermediate focal length and the wide aperture work amazingly well for portraits. It is also a super sharp macro.
Lee filter holder (aka the foundation kit): This holder will hold filters 100mm wide. It comes with enough parts to make slots for three filters. I specially like the fact that this filter holder can be placed in front of super wide angle lenses such as the Tokina 11-16mm without vignetting. The holder comes in a single size and is made to fit different lens diameters by using specific lens adaptor rings. I personally use the 72 mm ring for the 18-200 nikkor zoom and the 77 mm ring (super wide angle) for the 11-16 mm tokina.
Lee 10X ND (Big Stopper): This 10 x 10 cm piece of dark glass is what you need to be able to make long exposure photographs in daylight like this one here. If you want to know hot to use the Big Stopper check this post.
Lee 0.9 ND Grad Soft: Ideal for shooting sunsets or sunrises or whenever two parts of a scene are unevenly illuminated. The dark side provides 3x stops less light. I specially like Lee’s filters over Cokin’s because the Lee’s, unlike Cokin’s, are truly color neutral. This is how all Neutral Density filters should be, that’s why they are called Neutral. But turns out the Cokin’s (which I still own) produce a purple cast, specially when you stack multiple filters.
Tiffen 0.9 ND: This three stop filter screws on the front of the lens. Great intermediate ND filter for when the Big Stopper is too much.
B+W F-Pro circular polarizer: Use it to get rid of unwanted reflections from water and glass. A must for landscape photography. You get more saturated colors, besides 2 stops less of light.
Metz Mecablitz 32 MZ-3 Flash unit: I inherited this semi-automatic flash unit (Thanks Jordi!), and it works great. If you are triggering it from the camera make sure to put the little Wein device between your camera and the flash to avoid frying your camera! With this flash unit off camera you can make photos like this one here.
Interfit Strobies remote radio truggers: This inexpensive remote trigger works great when you need to fire your flash unit off camera. You need these to make photos like this one here.
Hähnel cable release: I use it whenever making long exposures or when avoiding camera shake is critical, such as in macro photography. It’s all plastic and has no screen like other units, but it’s cheap and it gets the job done. What else can you ask? Comes with a variety of adaptors that work with multiple camera models. I use it to make photos of startrails like the ones here, or to make long exposure photos like this one here.
Tripod: Manfrotto 190 CX3 with Vanguard SBH-100 ballhead: I almost never leave home on a photo trip without it. Essential for long exposures and, more generally, to get sharp photos.